04. Creating height through the hair with ridges

Ridges

Using crimpers to create volume, creating height with back comb, adding ridges as a finishing touch to add detail and to stop it looking dated.

GHD Crimpers

Osis medium-strong hold hairspray, Osis soft dust volumizing powder

Work in some volume product if necessary.
Decide where you want the hair to comb back from.
Draw a zig zag line at this point (approximately from ear to ear).
Lift the section, brush back and check that you are happy with it from the front.
Work the crimpers through the crown area.
Starting from the bottom of the crown, begin to backcomb using powder or spray before to help, bending the edges underneath to create your shape as you move further up.
Once the hair is backcombed use the fork comb to raise some sections and spray into place.
Pick up half of the section and gently twist so you have a flat surface to run your hair grip across the scalp.
Take the other half and twist towards the middle and again run the hair grip along the scalp.
Soften and tease any areas out with the fork comb.
Start by working on the sides, leave out the hairline.
Backcomb the sides, sweeping the sides back and securing in place.

Is crimping necessary? Test out a section of the hair first without crimping and only crimp it if it needs extra help.
When backcombing hold the hair out at 90 degrees with plenty of tension.
Create your shape as you go by tucking the sides underMake sure you backcomb right at the roots, if it isn’t right at the roots it will collapse and not hold any shape.
Keep checking you are happy with the shape from every angle.

How to smooth out coarse curly hair and create a smooth detailed crown area, showing off texture in dark hair.

Babyliss Prima 3000 straighteners

hair serum, Osis flatliner heat protector, medium hold hair spray

Work smoothing cream or serum through the hair and blow dry this in using a a round brush. Use plenty of tension to really stretch out the curl.
Work through straightening the hair, bend the hair at the roots and tuck the ends under.
From the bottom of the crown begin to backcomb, using plenty of tension and spray beforehand.
Bend each section underneath to create shape as you go along.
Backcomb the sides also whilst checking the shape from the front.
Using your fork comb, raise a few sections and spray into position (leave bigger gaps in between on darker hair).
Begin to grip into place, working on one half at a time, securing it in the middle.

Ensure all the roots are smoothed out and free of any kinks.
Use plenty of tension when drying, straightening and backcombing.
Backcomb right at the root so your shape doesn’t collapse.
On darker hair leave bigger gaps and make the teased out areas more obvious an defined.

A quick way of creating volume and ridges on thick hair, backcombing, creating a smooth finish.

Babyliss Prima 3000 straighteners, teasing brush, fork comb, elastics, grips

Medium hold hairspray

Smooth the hair first with the straighteners.
Create a deep zig zag roughly from ear to ear.
From the bottom of the crown area spray the roots with hairspray or volume powder and backcomb right at the root.
Fanning each section as you go, tucking the ends under to create a nice shape.
Gently skim the comb over to create a smooth finish.
Secure the hair with an elastic.
Check the position and loosen if needed.
Run a hair grip at the section near the scalp to keep this in place.
Start with the peaks of the zig zag you created, use your fork comb to carefully tease out these areas, spraying them in place.

Be very careful when placing the elastic, keep your finger and thumb tight on the hair so you don’t disturb the smooth finish you created.
Once the elastic is in, you can always move it further down if needed and you can tease these areas out before gripping in place.